With the wind up our tails and a 2 week postponement of the next job away, tackled the forepeak hatch surround.
But first, a play with my new toy. I had a struggle to flat off the epoxy deck covering due to clogging paper etc. and using a finishing sander which really wasn't up to the job. My belt sander was too aggressive, so after seeking advice, bought a (bloody expensive) random orbit sander complete with dust extraction. This is something I had had stubbornly refused to acknowledge the need for since the barn was full of its own dust. But this beastie is different, the sanding pads are a net substrate coated with abrasive, the dust produced, which normally clogs paper, is sucked through it - extending the life of the pads by some measure. In addition the sander weighs only 2lb, a big advantage when I use it to prepare the hull planking.
Back to the hatch. Mulled this over for some time before and decided on profiles outlined here. The first thing was to find some Iroko long enough. An old wildfowling friend a few years back, gave me some bearers that had been used for shipping crates; they were to be tossed aside and burnt - he salvaged about 200-300 of them. All were tropical hardwood and some Iroko. They varied slightly in length, width and thickness; I wanted 4' long and 2.25" thick. There was just one and that was going to be tight to miss the bolt holes...
The cutting is quite complex because the frame is made up in 2 halves and glued in situ such that it can be removed as one piece if required later. The inner frame is screwed to the deck edge with simple mitre corners, the drip apron sits on the deck surface and is glued into a groove in the frame, then screwed into the deck (sealed with mastic). This hopefully results in a waterproof structure and fitting.
The inner frame pieces needed a rebate so the outer edge rested on the deck (for support and sealing), the depth of which was important as this would affect the total external width of the hatch. This width had to be matched with the inner dimension of the hatch cover. This rebate was cut on the router table. There was a second rebate 1/4" above the 1st to receive the edge of the drip apron. This too was 1/4" wide and deep and was cut on the table saw.
The drip apron pieces were 2" wide and only 1/2" thick. These had a corresponding 1/4" rebate cut on the lower edge and then the outer edge given a roll moulding. The dry assembly looking something like this: